Kronenhalle is a legendary restaurant in Zurich. Thomas Mann liked the red room – it reminded him of a German luxury ship. Braque and Miro sat around the tables, and they hang on the walls; Picasso, too. But the most devoted habitue, the one whose regular seat everyone asks to see, if not sit in, was James Joyce. ”Joyce lived here for eight years,” says Gustav Zumsteg, Hulda’s son and the Kronenhalle’s owner. ”He came here every day. And he left this place to die.”